Review to follow as part of the final installment on Powermeters.
Friday, August 27, 2010
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Seen on the way home....
Geek on a Segway....I didn't know whether to laugh or cry.
On the bike path wearing a helmet...made my ride home.
Monday, August 23, 2010
I give it a week....
mmmm Shiny Whiteness
These turned up in the post today. I was so impressed with my Fury shoes I bought the matching road version. I opted not to get the slightly obnoxious yellow version, but the more subtle white version. However I'm now thinking that given our recent run of weather it will be about a week before they are white/ grey/ black smudged. Though admittedly the yellow version have cleaned up really well time they have ended up covered in filth.
Low profile sole
Next to it's MTB Cousin
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Hit out
So I decided to rock up for my first Bakery Bunch ride since about March. So the result.......well I made the front group through to the end but boy I was in a world a hurt. 335w NP for 20min. First up is the overall view,and secondly is the plot using fast find. As you can see in the space of 20 minutes there are close to 30 surges of over 315w or my the upper end of my threshold. Even trying to stay out of the wind when the acid is on hurts.
Overall plot
So how many surges in 20mins?
Overall plot
So how many surges in 20mins?
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Power Meter Choices Part II: Installation, Set-up, and other things that bring you to tears.
This the second in my little series about power meters and how I choose the one I did. This second part focuses on that happens after you get the nice shiny new box and starting the installation, setup and calibration process.
SRM
First up again is SRM...because well it’s the brand I have owned the longest and am the most familiar with. I would like to say I have had no experience with the new wireless version, but I imagine it would be similar to setting up a Quarq (See below).
Installation
Setting up a wired SRM involves two main parts. The installation of the crank it’s self and the routing of the cabling for the head unit.
Installing the crank is about a 10 minute process depending on whether you have the correct BB in the frame..... if not double it. At this point you can choose to install the crank sensor. Depending on which wiring kit sits behind the crank on the chain stay or if you have the more modern version is mounted using the bolt for the BB cable guide.
From here the job becomes a bit more time consuming if you want it done correctly the first time. Running the cable up the down tube and around the front brake cable so that you have a nice tidy set of wiring takes another 20-30 minutes and can be quite frustrating. I have used various methods including insulation tape and cable ties to get everything in place. One of the key things to watch is that there is enough length around the head tube area so that if the handlebars are turned 90° you do not snap the speed or sensor cable (been there done that $90 lesson).
The final step is mounting the head unit clamp and putting the unit on. I rate the SRM head unit as having the second best fixing method. I have broken a head unit before when a taxi in Sydney decided to open a door on me and snapped it from the mount. Given their position they can be damaged in an accident if something manages to get between your bars.
Trouble Shooting
I have had to trouble shoot SRM installations before and they are a bit more involved due to the number of potential sources of error. Sensor placement near the crank, faulty wiring kits, and batteries are the biggest causes of failure to get a signal from the cranks. The latter two are the expensive ones to fix as they require a new wiring kit or the crank to go off for a week to Kinetic to have the battery replaced.
Calibration
As I have mentioned previously SRM are the only power meter which a user can change the calibration on. I advise anyone that purchases one to check the calibration as the slope from SRM themselves is known to somewhat suspect. When I had two I would calibrate them once a month as it would only take about ½ hour and therefore I knew my data was always accurate.
The 0 offset for a SRM is set by pressing a combination of buttons back pedalling once, waiting for the numbers to settle then hitting enter. SRM’s seem to be more temperature sensitive than powertaps due to the way that power is measured with strain gauges. This means having to potentially reset this value a couple of times in a 5 hour ride if the weather is changeable.
Powertap
I have owned my powertap now for about 18 months and is the second oldest system I have experience with.
Installation
Depending on where you purchase yours from the system either comes built up in a wheel or as a hub which you have to have built up. The second option gives you more freedom of choice for rims and also it means that the freight costs are less due to smaller size of the box.
I had dramas with mine due to the LBS and my choice of spokes I used to get the wheel built up with. In summary it took over a year for the local distributor to admit that the spokes used on my wheel were a bad batch and replace them.
This issue aside getting the wheel, throwing a tire on and mounting the head unit up are as simple as it gets.
The Little Yellow Computer (LYC) is the most secure of all the head units I have tried due to its placement and the locking mechanism, which is very positive.
TroubleShooting
The powertap system is Ant+ so the headunit is paired with the hub. If the two aren’t talking it is normally a battery issue. Replacing the battery in the LYC is very straight forward with the cover easy to access. However on the MTB powertap you have to remove the disc rotor to be able to replace the hub battery and this is a 15 minute job, which luckily you should only have to do every 6 months or so.
The other issue with the powertap wheels their bearings. Basically, they are sh!t. I had to replace mine after only 3 months of getting a fresh rear wheel earlier this year. While getting the bearings is easy it’s about ¾ process to disassemble the hub punch the bearings out, press the new ones in and reassemble. The new bearings I got down the road are miles better than the originals and still going strong 6 months later.
Calibration
I wrote a piece a couple of months back about how to check the slope for a powertap. This is all that can be done by the user. If there are any issues the hub has to be sent back to Saris for repair.
Setting the 0 offset in the headunit is done so that every time a user coasts the offset is re-set. This is a good function and means that you don’t have to manually perform this as with a SRM.
Quarq
The new arrow in my quiver and so far so good.
Installation
So it’s and integrated crank and the installation is the same for any such similar crank set. I had to remove my existing BB and put in the SRAM specific GPX model that came with the crank set. Here I hit my first snag, the BB tool I had did not fit the non-drive side cup...seems that the axle hole on this cup is smaller than the drive side. So I tightened up by hand and continued with installing the cranks.
With wireless cranks (both SRM & Cinqo) you need to place a magnet close to the spider to activate the electronics when you begin pedalling. To start with I just used insulation tape to fix the magnet as I wasn’t sure whether the position I had chosen was going to activate the cranks.
Next I pushed/tapped the cranks through the BB using a rubber mallet as the machining tolerances are very tight. The fixing for the SRAM S950 is a single 8mm allen bolt on the non-drive crank arm. Basically tighten this up and that’s it. There is no ability to adjust play in the bearings and it relies upon the machining tolerances to ensure no side to side movement.
Next I mounted up the Garmin 705 on my stem and set about pairing the two up. The Garmin fixing is fairly weak. So far I have lost my GPS through user error with the bracket no engaging correctly and in a crash at Wagga earlier in the year. I don’t see the system being a problem on the roadie but time will tell.
Pairing the Garmin 705 & cranks was very easy it took less than 20 seconds...it seemed I had placed the magnet in the correct location.
Trouble Shooting
I got my first taste of this on my second ride! Was riding home from work and the cranks wouldn’t work. The night before I had rolled back the firmware as the latest stuff from Garmin is buggy with speed drop outs so it was back to version 2.90. So to start with I tried re-pairing the devices and that didn’t work. So I rode home with no power. Next I thought the magnet had moved so I spent ½ hour playing with that...still no joy. Then I went back to the settings in the Garmin and had another play with that...no luck. Finally I started going through the on-line trouble shooting guide till I got to the battery. I thought what are the chances? So I popped the battery on the cranks... and low and behold the Garmin flashed up a “low battery warning on power meter message”.
Back up stairs and scratching through the spares in the bottom draw and do you think I had the right one...nope. So I dashed off to the mall on the off chance that Coles/ Woolies/ K-Mart might have the right on in stock. But no dice.
Next day it was a trip to Dick Smith at lunch time and $13 later I had 3 new batteries and it was all good again.
So from this I learned that the system is more complicated than my previous SRM with potential sources of problems from both the head unit and the cranks themselves.
Calibration
The Cinqo transmits the 0 offset to the head unit so this viewable by the user. There are two method of re-setting this. Either by manually doing it using the options on the Garmin or alternatively backpedalling 4 times. The Cinqo is setup to detect this movement and resets the offset.
The slope is basically non-changeable....but I did read it is possible using Linux, a Garmin ANT+ USB stick and some programming knowledge. This is way beyond anything an average user/ me perform themselves.
So this concludes the second part of the series. I’ll post the next in a couple of days.
SRM
First up again is SRM...because well it’s the brand I have owned the longest and am the most familiar with. I would like to say I have had no experience with the new wireless version, but I imagine it would be similar to setting up a Quarq (See below).
Installation
Setting up a wired SRM involves two main parts. The installation of the crank it’s self and the routing of the cabling for the head unit.
Installing the crank is about a 10 minute process depending on whether you have the correct BB in the frame..... if not double it. At this point you can choose to install the crank sensor. Depending on which wiring kit sits behind the crank on the chain stay or if you have the more modern version is mounted using the bolt for the BB cable guide.
From here the job becomes a bit more time consuming if you want it done correctly the first time. Running the cable up the down tube and around the front brake cable so that you have a nice tidy set of wiring takes another 20-30 minutes and can be quite frustrating. I have used various methods including insulation tape and cable ties to get everything in place. One of the key things to watch is that there is enough length around the head tube area so that if the handlebars are turned 90° you do not snap the speed or sensor cable (been there done that $90 lesson).
The final step is mounting the head unit clamp and putting the unit on. I rate the SRM head unit as having the second best fixing method. I have broken a head unit before when a taxi in Sydney decided to open a door on me and snapped it from the mount. Given their position they can be damaged in an accident if something manages to get between your bars.
Trouble Shooting
I have had to trouble shoot SRM installations before and they are a bit more involved due to the number of potential sources of error. Sensor placement near the crank, faulty wiring kits, and batteries are the biggest causes of failure to get a signal from the cranks. The latter two are the expensive ones to fix as they require a new wiring kit or the crank to go off for a week to Kinetic to have the battery replaced.
Calibration
As I have mentioned previously SRM are the only power meter which a user can change the calibration on. I advise anyone that purchases one to check the calibration as the slope from SRM themselves is known to somewhat suspect. When I had two I would calibrate them once a month as it would only take about ½ hour and therefore I knew my data was always accurate.
The 0 offset for a SRM is set by pressing a combination of buttons back pedalling once, waiting for the numbers to settle then hitting enter. SRM’s seem to be more temperature sensitive than powertaps due to the way that power is measured with strain gauges. This means having to potentially reset this value a couple of times in a 5 hour ride if the weather is changeable.
Powertap
I have owned my powertap now for about 18 months and is the second oldest system I have experience with.
Installation
Depending on where you purchase yours from the system either comes built up in a wheel or as a hub which you have to have built up. The second option gives you more freedom of choice for rims and also it means that the freight costs are less due to smaller size of the box.
I had dramas with mine due to the LBS and my choice of spokes I used to get the wheel built up with. In summary it took over a year for the local distributor to admit that the spokes used on my wheel were a bad batch and replace them.
This issue aside getting the wheel, throwing a tire on and mounting the head unit up are as simple as it gets.
The Little Yellow Computer (LYC) is the most secure of all the head units I have tried due to its placement and the locking mechanism, which is very positive.
TroubleShooting
The powertap system is Ant+ so the headunit is paired with the hub. If the two aren’t talking it is normally a battery issue. Replacing the battery in the LYC is very straight forward with the cover easy to access. However on the MTB powertap you have to remove the disc rotor to be able to replace the hub battery and this is a 15 minute job, which luckily you should only have to do every 6 months or so.
The other issue with the powertap wheels their bearings. Basically, they are sh!t. I had to replace mine after only 3 months of getting a fresh rear wheel earlier this year. While getting the bearings is easy it’s about ¾ process to disassemble the hub punch the bearings out, press the new ones in and reassemble. The new bearings I got down the road are miles better than the originals and still going strong 6 months later.
Calibration
I wrote a piece a couple of months back about how to check the slope for a powertap. This is all that can be done by the user. If there are any issues the hub has to be sent back to Saris for repair.
Setting the 0 offset in the headunit is done so that every time a user coasts the offset is re-set. This is a good function and means that you don’t have to manually perform this as with a SRM.
Quarq
The new arrow in my quiver and so far so good.
Installation
So it’s and integrated crank and the installation is the same for any such similar crank set. I had to remove my existing BB and put in the SRAM specific GPX model that came with the crank set. Here I hit my first snag, the BB tool I had did not fit the non-drive side cup...seems that the axle hole on this cup is smaller than the drive side. So I tightened up by hand and continued with installing the cranks.
With wireless cranks (both SRM & Cinqo) you need to place a magnet close to the spider to activate the electronics when you begin pedalling. To start with I just used insulation tape to fix the magnet as I wasn’t sure whether the position I had chosen was going to activate the cranks.
Next I pushed/tapped the cranks through the BB using a rubber mallet as the machining tolerances are very tight. The fixing for the SRAM S950 is a single 8mm allen bolt on the non-drive crank arm. Basically tighten this up and that’s it. There is no ability to adjust play in the bearings and it relies upon the machining tolerances to ensure no side to side movement.
Next I mounted up the Garmin 705 on my stem and set about pairing the two up. The Garmin fixing is fairly weak. So far I have lost my GPS through user error with the bracket no engaging correctly and in a crash at Wagga earlier in the year. I don’t see the system being a problem on the roadie but time will tell.
Pairing the Garmin 705 & cranks was very easy it took less than 20 seconds...it seemed I had placed the magnet in the correct location.
Trouble Shooting
I got my first taste of this on my second ride! Was riding home from work and the cranks wouldn’t work. The night before I had rolled back the firmware as the latest stuff from Garmin is buggy with speed drop outs so it was back to version 2.90. So to start with I tried re-pairing the devices and that didn’t work. So I rode home with no power. Next I thought the magnet had moved so I spent ½ hour playing with that...still no joy. Then I went back to the settings in the Garmin and had another play with that...no luck. Finally I started going through the on-line trouble shooting guide till I got to the battery. I thought what are the chances? So I popped the battery on the cranks... and low and behold the Garmin flashed up a “low battery warning on power meter message”.
Back up stairs and scratching through the spares in the bottom draw and do you think I had the right one...nope. So I dashed off to the mall on the off chance that Coles/ Woolies/ K-Mart might have the right on in stock. But no dice.
Next day it was a trip to Dick Smith at lunch time and $13 later I had 3 new batteries and it was all good again.
So from this I learned that the system is more complicated than my previous SRM with potential sources of problems from both the head unit and the cranks themselves.
Calibration
The Cinqo transmits the 0 offset to the head unit so this viewable by the user. There are two method of re-setting this. Either by manually doing it using the options on the Garmin or alternatively backpedalling 4 times. The Cinqo is setup to detect this movement and resets the offset.
The slope is basically non-changeable....but I did read it is possible using Linux, a Garmin ANT+ USB stick and some programming knowledge. This is way beyond anything an average user/ me perform themselves.
So this concludes the second part of the series. I’ll post the next in a couple of days.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Power Meter Choices Part 1
Well rather than write screeds in one sitting I have decided to break-up my entry on how I went about choosing my new powermeter, the installation, and headunit.
I am going to break this into three parts with this being the first regarding system choice.
The Options
There were a couple of reasons I decided to update my system. The first was the age and the second was the technology used. My old SRM systems were coming up to about 7-8 years old, and while they were still reliable, the fact that they were wired and used either a square-taper or Octalink BB was becoming a hindrance in looking at new frames.
I already knew the three systems I was going to have a closer look at SRM, PowerTap, & Cinqo.
SRM
This the grand daddy of all the power measurement systems available on the market today and the technology hasn’t changed much since it was originally implemented. The design has been refined and spread across a number of different crank systems from Shimano, FSA, Cannondale, and Rotor.
The biggest developments have been in terms of the head unit. With a progression from the original PCIV which I started off with through to the latest PCVII. Each iteration has been a refinement of the previous, though some would argue that the PCIV’s 0.1sec recording rate was a feature that should have been continued on later models.
My SRM’s were running the PCV head unit which was the last of the wired units supported before SRM changed to wireless with the PC VI. When they made this leap there was no cross compatibility between the systems meaning that a PC VI would not work with a wired system.
The Good
• Proven, reliable, design.
• Easy to setup and use.
• The gold standard in accuracy.
• Service is the best in the industry.
• User calibrated.
• Now USB compatable/ Charging
• 130+hr battery
The Bad
• Price. In market terms SRM’s are overpriced given the technology involved as demonstrated by pricing for Quarq’s.
• Units are sold minus a head unit which is needed to check/ change calibration. Across all power meters, these are the most overpriced component given the technology involved.
• No GPS.
• Head Unit not user customisable.
Powertap
Another power meter I currently own as it is the only viable system available for the MTB. Like most people I have had problems since purchasing it, with it having to go to the USA to be replaced (reason not given) by Saris. And 1x set of dead bearings inside of 4 months on return. Powertaps are cheap in comparison to the other systems available and a lot of people end up purchasing them for this reason. However as mentioned previously the support given by TBA for these is next to none...if you are lucky. I ended up contacting Saris directly when I had problems with mine. Personally if/ when Cinqo get a MTB crank on the market I will be selling my powertap wheel.
The Good
• Cheap, you can purchase two for the price of an SRM.
• Easy to use
The Bad
• Chews bearings
• Cannot be user calibrated
• Next to no support in Australia from the distributor
• Bound to one rear wheel.
Cinqo
The new kid on the block. The system is not common over this side of the world, and after doing some research I found out why. Cinqo produce measurement systems for a number of cranksets, SRAM, Lighting, Rotor, Cannondale basically any crankset which has a removable spider similar to SRM. However the only cranks distributed internationally are the SRAM version. And these are done back through SRAM. So it goes something like this,
Quarq get the cranks from SRAM -> Fit the new spider and send back to SRAM international ->SRAM International then send these out to their distributors in each region -> You get your LBS to contact the countries distributor and purchase them through them.
You cannot buy directly from Quarq if you live outside the USA or Canada....which seems a bit backwards.
So I initially found a cheap on-line seller of the cranks here in Australia, but after a number of emails to Quarq, SRAM USA, the seller, And Monza here in Australia. I worked out that they were not an official distribution channel despite claiming to be. For those interested the only official distributors here in Australia are Monza and Echelon Sports.
In the end I actually found a second hand set from the USA for less than $AU1300....good score.
The Good
• Proven technology- Strain gauges in the crank.
• User replaceable battery- yah no more $AU90 to have the crank battery replaced every 18 months.
• Spider can be swapped to BB30 cranks should buy a new Cannondale Caad 10
• Lighter than current setup
• Integrated BB spindle means it’s compatibles with most modern frames.
• Not bound to a specific headunit, can be used with Garmin, Saris Joule, and SRM (if you get the signal changed.
The Bad
• No local support. If there is a problem it has to go back to the US
• Not easily user calibrated. It is possible but very involved and you probably need to be a computer programmer to do it.
The Unknown
• Reliability- Still a very young system and its long term durability is not known.
• Accuracy- The crank has 20 separate strain gauges to achieve the claimed 2% accuracy vs SRM’s 2, 4, or 8 gauges. Until I started using the crank this was going to be the real unknown as to how it stacks up against the SRM.
Part 2 will follow in a the next couple of days.
I am going to break this into three parts with this being the first regarding system choice.
The Options
There were a couple of reasons I decided to update my system. The first was the age and the second was the technology used. My old SRM systems were coming up to about 7-8 years old, and while they were still reliable, the fact that they were wired and used either a square-taper or Octalink BB was becoming a hindrance in looking at new frames.
I already knew the three systems I was going to have a closer look at SRM, PowerTap, & Cinqo.
SRMThis the grand daddy of all the power measurement systems available on the market today and the technology hasn’t changed much since it was originally implemented. The design has been refined and spread across a number of different crank systems from Shimano, FSA, Cannondale, and Rotor.
The biggest developments have been in terms of the head unit. With a progression from the original PCIV which I started off with through to the latest PCVII. Each iteration has been a refinement of the previous, though some would argue that the PCIV’s 0.1sec recording rate was a feature that should have been continued on later models.
My SRM’s were running the PCV head unit which was the last of the wired units supported before SRM changed to wireless with the PC VI. When they made this leap there was no cross compatibility between the systems meaning that a PC VI would not work with a wired system.
The Good
• Proven, reliable, design.
• Easy to setup and use.
• The gold standard in accuracy.
• Service is the best in the industry.
• User calibrated.
• Now USB compatable/ Charging
• 130+hr battery
The Bad
• Price. In market terms SRM’s are overpriced given the technology involved as demonstrated by pricing for Quarq’s.
• Units are sold minus a head unit which is needed to check/ change calibration. Across all power meters, these are the most overpriced component given the technology involved.
• No GPS.
• Head Unit not user customisable.
Powertap
Another power meter I currently own as it is the only viable system available for the MTB. Like most people I have had problems since purchasing it, with it having to go to the USA to be replaced (reason not given) by Saris. And 1x set of dead bearings inside of 4 months on return. Powertaps are cheap in comparison to the other systems available and a lot of people end up purchasing them for this reason. However as mentioned previously the support given by TBA for these is next to none...if you are lucky. I ended up contacting Saris directly when I had problems with mine. Personally if/ when Cinqo get a MTB crank on the market I will be selling my powertap wheel.
The Good
• Cheap, you can purchase two for the price of an SRM.
• Easy to use
The Bad
• Chews bearings
• Cannot be user calibrated
• Next to no support in Australia from the distributor
• Bound to one rear wheel.
Cinqo
The new kid on the block. The system is not common over this side of the world, and after doing some research I found out why. Cinqo produce measurement systems for a number of cranksets, SRAM, Lighting, Rotor, Cannondale basically any crankset which has a removable spider similar to SRM. However the only cranks distributed internationally are the SRAM version. And these are done back through SRAM. So it goes something like this,
Quarq get the cranks from SRAM -> Fit the new spider and send back to SRAM international ->SRAM International then send these out to their distributors in each region -> You get your LBS to contact the countries distributor and purchase them through them.
You cannot buy directly from Quarq if you live outside the USA or Canada....which seems a bit backwards.
So I initially found a cheap on-line seller of the cranks here in Australia, but after a number of emails to Quarq, SRAM USA, the seller, And Monza here in Australia. I worked out that they were not an official distribution channel despite claiming to be. For those interested the only official distributors here in Australia are Monza and Echelon Sports.
In the end I actually found a second hand set from the USA for less than $AU1300....good score.
The Good
• Proven technology- Strain gauges in the crank.
• User replaceable battery- yah no more $AU90 to have the crank battery replaced every 18 months.
• Spider can be swapped to BB30 cranks should buy a new Cannondale Caad 10
• Lighter than current setup
• Integrated BB spindle means it’s compatibles with most modern frames.
• Not bound to a specific headunit, can be used with Garmin, Saris Joule, and SRM (if you get the signal changed.
The Bad
• No local support. If there is a problem it has to go back to the US
• Not easily user calibrated. It is possible but very involved and you probably need to be a computer programmer to do it.
The Unknown
• Reliability- Still a very young system and its long term durability is not known.
• Accuracy- The crank has 20 separate strain gauges to achieve the claimed 2% accuracy vs SRM’s 2, 4, or 8 gauges. Until I started using the crank this was going to be the real unknown as to how it stacks up against the SRM.
Part 2 will follow in a the next couple of days.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
New Powermeter
So last night was the first outing with the Cinqo and it performed perfectly...even in 3 hours of pouring rain. I have teamed the new crank up with my Garmin 705 for the time being and the data coming out agrees within the margin of error between the two powermeters.
I performed a quick and dirty MFA last night to check and the difference is in the order or 2%.
I will provide an fuller post within the next couple of days as to why I choose the Quarq and details regarding setup etc.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Goodbye old Friend
Goodbye old friend...I'm going to miss you.
Yes today is a sad day, it was my last ride on my beloved SRM. My replacement powermeter arrived today, and after riding home. I tore her down and put the new one on.
My old SRM was super reliable and never missed a beat in the 3 years that I was it's owner, and now like it's predecessor is going on fleabay to a new home.
But enough with all the sentiment, I have a new toy to play with! It's wireless, 100gms lighter then the old system, and full of carbony goodness. So after putting it through it's paces tomorrow night I'll post up a picture....And yes it's something a bit different ;)
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Carbon is bad mmmkay
Someone sent me a link to this site involving well...pictures of broken carbon bike bits....... oh no the horror
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
40°+
As I mentioned in my last post the training has been going really well, and the motivation is super high at the moment. So well in fact that over the past 10 days I have probably spent 10hr+ training in the pouring rain.
Well my body has decided it's payback time and as of last night I am running a fever in excess of 39°. It peaked out last night before I went to bed at over 40°+!
So today I'm at home, and supposed to be in bed. However wifey did leave me a medium sized list to chores to do so haven't made it back there after dropping her off at work this morning. I also had to swear on pain of death, that I would not ride my bike today, including on the windtrainer.
But there is a bright side! These arrived last Friday so I might get a chance to watch half of one this afternoon.
Well my body has decided it's payback time and as of last night I am running a fever in excess of 39°. It peaked out last night before I went to bed at over 40°+!
So today I'm at home, and supposed to be in bed. However wifey did leave me a medium sized list to chores to do so haven't made it back there after dropping her off at work this morning. I also had to swear on pain of death, that I would not ride my bike today, including on the windtrainer.
But there is a bright side! These arrived last Friday so I might get a chance to watch half of one this afternoon.
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