Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Static.....Ebaying my life


Sorry for the lack of updates, but everything is going well and on track. In fact I've got a 12hr on the cards for next weekend! My first.... so trying new things and all that.
Other then that, things are a bit sad. I'm cleaning out/ ebaying my garage, and have takers for the last two pair so carbon wheelsets I had sitting there. So I guess I'm no longer a roadie. I also have my SRM's up for grabs with alot of interested buyers.
So with the SRM's on sale I have a new powermeter lined up for training on the road (post to come on that)

Monday, July 19, 2010

Up For Sale 2x SRM's


Ok, so I finally decided I'm going to update/downsize my collection of SRM's. So I'm putting up for sale 1x full system & 1x partial system.

1x SRM Pro System ($900)
-1x Pro Cranks (4x strain gauges & black/white/grey sticker) 170mm with Campagnolo square taper BB (english thread). Accuracy +/-2%
-1x Wired Head Unit V(white)
-1x Front wiring harness
-1x O/S (31.8) alloy Handlebar mount
-1x Australia/ NZ charger
-1x USB download cable

1x SRM Amateur System ($700)
-1x Amateur Cranks (2x strain gauges & green/black/white sticker) 172.5mm with Dura-Ace Octalink BB(english thread). Accuracy +/-5%
-1x Wired Head Unit V(Black)
-1x Front wiring harness
-1x Plastic Handlebar mount(25.4)

Email me at d_w_rae@hotmail.com if interested.

Friday, July 16, 2010

New SRM Importer- Australia


I just found out yesterday that there is now a new retailer for SRM in Australia. Having a look through the price list and things can come way down over the last couple of years. A new wireless square taper crank can be had for $AU1650+GST and one of the new headunits for $AU900+GST.
So head over to RST Training for the full price list. Order times are 2-3 weeks out of Germany

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Base Layers







So given Canberra is currently in the grips of winter, I thought it time to upgrade some of my baselayers and add a couple of longsleeve items to the wardrobe. So after some research I choose a couple of Craft Pro Zero Extreme tops.

I have always ridden with a technical baselayer to help aid in the insulation/ evapouration process right from my days as a novice.

Craft isn't a name that is well known over this side of the globe infact I couldn't find a local importer at all. So I ended up doing the purchase from one of the normal mail order companies and a week later they turned up in the post.

So first up the Zero Extreme range have a dedicated windstop front on them to keep the chill off your chest. Next up is the channelled fabric used for the back and arms. It's very soft to touch and has flat stitching to ensure no chafing.

Fitwise the body and arms are a good length in all the right places ie the shirt tail region and sleeves when moving your arms don't ride up and expose your wrist area.

The first ride was yesterday in a balmy 3 degrees. Firstly once on I didn't notice the undershirt again it didn't move or chafe so thats a huge tick. Further into the ride once I had warmed up I noticed that the shirt wasn't holding any moisture and breathing to allow the sweat to move out to my thermal jacket.

After the ride I checked the top and it was slightly damp, however once I hung this up at work it had dried out by the time I rode home. The other thing was there was no odour like some undershirt once they get sweat into them.

So all up I'm stoked with these and highly recommend the brand...in fact I will probably buy a couple of short sleeve zero versions (no windstop front) for spring.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Cyclists fight like little girls



Trying to bash someone with a carbon wheel...I think alloy might have been more effective ;)




Always funny watching roadies try and have a fight after a race....those shoes make it difficult to get balanced footing(they also can't punch for sh!t).

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Diamonds on the soles of her shoes


Well not really. They are Swarovski Kristallwelten, still very cool. No price yet but given how expensive sidi shoes normally are...expect to pay a handsome premium!

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Looks like a scooter but not...

Yesterday morning while out doing family stuff I saw one of these on top of a car. Big chunky MTB wheels, covered in mud. I caught my eye and I thought "That's just dumb... go get a MTB if you want to play in the mud, not a kids toy"

A kids scooter....?

It wasn't till I was riding along one of the fire roads on my way to Stromlo later in the day, I worked out what it really was. I heard them before I saw them, then screaming round the corner, came one of these scooters.... being towed my four huskys/ malamutes at full noise, these guys were flying. I pulled over to let them past, something pretty special and made it made my day.

Calibration

So I have been mentally been telling myself that, "I need to check the calibration of my MTB powertap" for a couple of months now, but just haven't got around to it. I know a number of the guys with them have started having various problems so, I thought now was a good time to check the accuracy.

So today, decided was the day and I created the spreadsheet and set aside 1/2 hour to do the testing. The testing procedure is also the same as for a SRM, except with the powertap you test various gear combinations. The only equipment required is something with a know weight, either youself or a couple of lifting plates of at least 20kg and a spirit level for leveling the cranks.

The spreadsheet is just a series of basic calculations, Torque= weight * crank length * 1/25.4 * (rear sprocket/ front chainring).

The yellow powertap headunit displays the measured torque value if you hold the select button for 2 seconds.

So this is the result,


Firstly, the powertap is reading ~ 3.0% low aross the gear range or about 8.9w at threshold. Secondly you can see that the 12t & 36t produce the highest levels or error. This is a consequence of the chainline and way that torque is applied to the hub. 3.0% is double the quoted accuracy from Saris for their hubs, but at this stage I am not worried enough to send it back to be adjusted.